Horrific Wipeout in the Pipe Pro
Many injuries are not reported in surfing. Serious accidents often go unnoticed and many valiant efforts are never acknowledged. Often...
The Power of Water
Cliff divers usually attempt to land head first in water. Most impacts are to the tops of their heads. The force is tremendous and...
Semi-Displacement Surfboards
Most surfboards have flat undersides from nose tip to fin area. Tail designs vary with flat, Vee or concave shapes. The forward section...
Descending Into Liquid
When you dive into water, it cushions you and absorbs your energy. Your body pushes water out of your path and energy is transferred to...
Science of Walking on Water
The closest a man or woman has gotten to walking on water, is by water skiing barefoot. The difference between a walker and skier, is...
Hydrodynamics for Dummies / How Surfboards Plane
A flat surface, moving in water, creates resistance. Water resists displacement and penetration by speeding flat objects. Resistance...
Mark Twain Marveled at a Surfer's Speed / In the 2019 WSL Bells Beach Pro Nose Rocker Kills Spee
Mark Twain described a lightning fast surfer: "at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the...
A Year to Remember
Aloha 2020, Happy New Year 2021 by Donn Ito A tempestuous year ends as we begin a new one. It is easy to forget events of the past, as...
Catapulting and Compression
All surfers have fallen hard into water. When you impact water with speed, your body pauses on the water's surface for a second. Water...
Danger and Tragedy by Flat Bottoms with High Nose Rocker at High Speed
When a surfboard takes off it moves through three phases. Initially it pushes water in the displacement phase. Vessels must push water...
