Eminent Danger
Wipeouts A wipeout caused by Pearling or Nose Poking is a great danger to surfers. In a poke or pearl, a speeding surfboard, abruptly...
Olympics, Surfing, Physics, and Future Olympians
The Olympic games feature athletes from around the world competing in many different sporting events. Although competition pits man...
Scent of Perfection
The Perfect Surfboard The perfect surfboard is one matched or built for a specific rider, who optimizes performance on a particular wave....
Happy New Year! This Year Reduce Nose Pokes and Pearls
Controlling fluid intake brings a safer New Year. Controlling fluid resistance brings safer surfing. A nose poke or pearl dive is very...
Remembering Mark Foo
The anniversary of losing legend Mark Foo is December 23, 1994. He left us long before the introduction of inflatable life-saving...
The Forces of Water Catapult Surfers
by Donn Ito September 15, 2020 A very common and painful wipeout for surfers is the catapult. All surfers know the feeling. Surfers...
Fluid Dynamics in Surfing
An ancient fluid displacement theorem applies to vessels moving through water: "to move in water you must move water". The principle...
In Dangerous Dives, Hydrodynamic Force Stops Ships, Boats, and Surfboards
In the following video, surfers bravely battle strong off shore wind and steep lurching cavernous waves at Mavericks. All make daring...
Momentum on the Following Sea
Riding on the crest of a wave, a quintessential surfer glides on water propelled by nature's energy. He smoothly slips into a steep...
Riley is Recovering from his Injury at Pipe
In response to many inquiries, Riley Morgan is recovering from his horrific wipe out in the Volcom Pipe Pro. He landed on the wave face...
